
this week has been awesome. it's finally officially summer (though a windstorm could pop up at any moment, you never know), and i'm starting to feel like i actually live in cape town. billy's been in the states for the past 2 weeks, so it's been interesting to be on my own and to move more independently here in the southern hemisphere. i had a short-term babysitting gig for a little american babe named ollie (at right), and had just enough time to get attached to him before he headed back to the states. having to go thru the security gate of his apartment complex almost daily for 3 weeks, i started to have really entertaining and amicable exchanges with the security staff there. most of them knew me by name and we'd banter about the terrible weather and about how absurdly long and boring their 12 hours shifts are. it must be so strange to work security for the world's wealthiest while living a pretty low-income existence oneself.
i've started hanging out with a great south african woman named noncedo. billy met her husband floyd at a jazz concert many months back but they didn't ever hang out until a few weeks ago, and we've all hit it off quite well. in particular one of the highlights of spending time with floyd and noncedo is their awesome 2 year old son, Osun, who is so bright and will undoubtedly grow up to be a musical phenomenon. he'll stop in the middle of throwing plastic balls when a cool jazz riff comes over the speakers to exclaim "daddy! check the bass!" (the house is always alive with free jazz flowing through the kitchen and out onto the patio and grassy yard, which looks up to a beautiful view of lion's head peak) floyd and noncedo are really attentive and enthusiastic parents and it's cool to see how much osun thrives from their supportive environment. plus, he's just plain cute. he was calling me 'billy' for a while, much to all of our amusement, but hey - it's an honest mistake that even our adult friends sometimes make; our consonants are just swapped around!(above, osun rocks the drums - he looks just like his papa
in that pic - and below right he works on salutations and looking cute [effortless])

in having so much time to myself, it's been fun to rediscover some of the things i enjoy but forget to dedicate time to when i'm spending a lot of time balancing schoolwork with relationship time, etc. in particular i've been hiking with friends, getting back into a regular yoga practice, having impromptu art parties, and doing more intentional thinking about what i hope to gain out of my remaining time in this country (it's going so fast!), and what i think i might have to offer. i've been cleared to start volunteering at a maternity hospital but have been a bit sick the past 3 weeks, so have steered clear. i've been getting more linked-in with the birth community here, but still want to connect more with midwives and get some solid homebirth experience.
at the same time as i feel like i've cleared some adjustment hump and am settling in more here, i'm more and more aware of the contradictions of living in the most unequal society in the world. i find myself 'defending' south africa, or at least cape town, as "not as bad [read:violent] as the reputation" of the tourist guide books for those who might be planning to come see me. but in truth, my existence in cape town (and that of most affluent people here) is something of a sheltered bubble from the absolutely horrific levels of daily crime and violence experienced by the bulk of this nation's poor in the townships. closest to home has been the violent mugging of our good friend paul, who narrowly escaped his attackers one recent friday evening when going to visit his cousin in the township of phillipi. noncedo & i met this week with the leaders of a new political movement growing out of a rastafarian community working council here who hope to govern on behalf of the poor majority. "there's not a day goes by dat i don' see da dead bodies in my neighborhood," ras benjamin tells us. so, i can reassure all my friends and family that if they come here, i'll do my best to help ensure their safety, and really, the risks of violent crime against them are pretty low in most of the places we're likely to spend time. it's the already downtrodden folks with a dollar fifty in their pocket who are getting stabbed for that dollar fifty, in shantytowns with no sidewalks, where police get council orders to tear down community centers the people have tried to build for themselves on land they don't officially own. i think i've not wanted to talk much about crime in south africa, not wanted to reinforce the public perceptions ... but i think that continuing that kind of silence would make me complicit with a system which fundamentally is failing to meet the basic needs of many (arguably the majority) of its citizens.
so as i feel more comfortable here, feel like i've begun to know the little side streets of my neighborhood like the veins on the backside of my hand, feel tickled to run into people i know in different parts of town, i simultaneously feel less comfortable, feel the tremendous magnitude of inequity getting more and more under my skin, feel the weight of what this country is really up against to succeed at what the anti-apartheid freedom fighters said they intended to do, which was far more than to simply end overt legal racism.
(some of the major problems with the transition from apartheid to this 'democratic' south africa are highlighted in the essay "from racial to class apartheid: south africa's frustrating decade of freedom" by patrick bond, for those who are interested in a more in-depth analysis. i'd be interested in y'alls thoughts about 'good governance)
i'm looking forward to welcoming billy back to south africa, and especially to getting to spend some time with his sweet momma, jean, who'll be visiting us for a week. and then finally, as soon as i finish my coursework, i'm off at the beginning of december for a 4-6 week travel adventure with one of my lifelong best friends, erin l-c, through kenya, tanzania, malawi, mozambique, and who knows where else! am excited for that but also feeling like a bit of a homebody now that i'm feeling more connected with cape town. i don't want to miss out on seeing more of this continent in the time i have, though. stay tuned for the inevitable travelogues :)
health, hugs, & hilarity...
libby
(this time, the whole fantastic family: noncedo, osun, and floyd)


